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Faces of Calitri

Ester Zarrilli, who is a saleswoman at a cell phone store, sells sweets every Thursday morning at the street market. Her husband, Canio Zarrilli, is the town’s photographer.

Sisters, Giovanna and Antonietta Gallucci, who make the best cappuccinos on Via Corso Matteotti.

Kids taking a break from playing soccer on Via Tozzoli.

A relative of my grandpa’s, Vito Michele Gervasi, who is a retired carpenter and makes wine in his free time. Of all wine I have had, his is far superior.

Tania Di Luzio and her boyfriend, Antonio Margotta. Tania is a chef at La Locanda dell’Arco, a wonderful restaurant on Via Pasquale Berrilli, which is managed by her father, Tonino. I’ve spent many evenings there drinking wine and chatting with them all night long. My grandpa’s grandmother was a Margotta so I’m related to Antonio, as well as Tania (whose mother is a Margotta).

Concetta Tornillo, a 83-year-old widow of Antonio Forgione and a great-grandmother of four. Her lacework is exquisite.

Angelo Francesco Forgione, a deaf retired postman, used to haul water to his house from this very fountain when he was a child in the 1960s.

Maria Francesca Di Maio and Michele Arcangelo Di Maio, widowed siblings who live together in a beautiful house in the countryside of Calitri called Gagliano. Gardening, bee keeping and growing vegetables and chestnuts keep themselves busy. They gave me a bag of fresh chestnuts and tomatoes as a parting gift. Wonderful people.

Francesca Di Maio (no close relation to Maria Francesca Di Maio), an elderly widow of Vincenzo Tornillo and mother of three. She lives in Via Pittoli.

Angelo Schettino – a previous neighbor of mine who lives in Via Posterla. His favorite pasttime is standing in this very spot all day long and gaze at the mountains. When I approached him one morning, I asked him if I could take a picture of him; he nodded, smiling, and removed his beret for the picture.

People of San Canio church. Don Pasquale is the priest, Rosa Cala’ is the secretary and Gaetana Luongo, at the very right, cooks and cleans for the priest. Since the church records, of which I photographed over the last five months, are kept by Rosa, I’ve grown to know all three.

Katia Fierravanti is a CODA, student at a hairdressing academy in Naples and the wildest 18-year-old I know.

Antonio Zarrilli, his son Fabio and brother, Gianfranco, pressing grapes in preparation for wine.

Donato Tornillo and his wife, Nina Galgano. They own a lovely flower shop in Via Francesco De Sanctis.

Pietro Della Badia, a 83-year-old widower having lost his wife just last year. He spends most of his time in the ‘campagna’ (countryside). He grows chickens, grapes for wine, all sorts of vegetables and cachi, a type of fruit that I’ve never seen, or heard of, before.

Peppino Di Maio, a retired policeman-turned-winemaker. Policeman in Italian is “guardia” hence the name of his wine.

Leonilda Francesca Di Biasi, a 91-year-old widowed great-grandmother. A native of a neighboring town, Cairano, she moved to Calitri at the age of 20 after she married a calitrano, Vito Zarrilli.

Mario Antonio Zarrilli and his trusty companion, Stella, who never leaves his side. Mario Antonio is deaf and tends keeps to himself but will always nod and smile at you in passing.

Tonino Maffucci, known as “O’ Chivar’” in the local dialect, owns and runs Poldo’s, a panini/coffee shop. With him are his sons, Angelo and Maurizio.

I was often found sitting outside on their patio, while eating one of their delicious 2 euros panini and enjoying beer.

Luciana Senerchia and Rebeca Mele preparing fresh biscottis for Luciana and her husband, Franco Stanco’s bisotticceria on Via Corso.

Antonio Gautieri runs a successful waffle and cone-making business called “Coni e cialde”.

Luigia Lucrezia, Antonio’s sister-in-law…

…and Antonia Lucrezia, wife of Antonio.

A family of doctors: Luigi Galgano, his wife Giovanna Cestone, and their sons, Vito and Vincenzo.

The Di Cecca cheese factory sells their fresh cheese all over Southern Italy.

Franco Maffucci is a retired barber and a devoted musician. His guitar, which he strums while he belts out the local folk music, is his constant companion.

Peppino Gervasi, a relative of my grandpa’s, who sells fruit and vegetables.

Michele Tornillo and his son, Mario, are the town’s butchers. Missing from the photo is another son, Vito.

Joséphine Ragazzo, a lovely woman with a bubbly personality, is grocery-store-owner who left her native country of France after marrying a calitrano.

Vito Zabatta and his mother, Maddalena, who run a gelateria / pasticceria on Via Francesco Sanctis.

31 October 2009 - 11:38 pm Lori Dameff - WOW! AWESOME! I was blown away by your beautiful heartfelt photography! I never thought of taking pics of what they do beside a portrait . That's a great idea! You captured these people in the real life perfectly. I feel like I just met them by being there. :) (((hugs))) Looking forward to hear all about your trip!!1 Love, your cousin, Lori

1 November 2009 - 7:37 am janie - Thank you Jason-it warms my heart to see the people of Calitri, thinking that maybe I could be related to one of them! Awesome photos and so good to hear from you again.

1 November 2009 - 8:49 pm Pat Cianci - Jason - thanks so much for sharing these pictures! They are beautiful and bring back such wonderful memories of one of the best vacations that John & I took! Thank you! PatC

5 November 2009 - 10:12 am Marlene - Unbelievably beautiful. thank you Jason for the tour.

Stella Cruz

It has been weeks….no, months…since I made my previous post. Things have been nuts lately with my trip to Africa then Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. After my return, my workload increased with all the guests coming in in the month of August. And, on top of that, I had two friends visit me for a week last week. With all that has been going on, I didn’t find the time to make a post and for that, I apologize.

Today is my last day at work (thank goodness) so I finally have some free time. There’s so much to tell but first and foremost, I have an important announcement to make!

I AM AN UNCLE! :-)

On Sunday, August 9th, I was having lunch with my family here in Calitri when I received the following e-mail from my sister:

Wanted to let u know that my water broke at 2:45am! Woo hoo! Just left our house to go to the hospital. There’s a good chance she will come on ur birthday =)))

Love u and I will oovoo you one we get signed in to a room. Might be awhile so email me or mom b4 then for any updates, etc.

Love u!
Pamela

I hurried my way through lunch then went to La Loconda dell’Arco, a restaurant in Calitri and one of the few places in town that has wireless internet.

I got there at 2 p.m. and immediately turned on my laptop and then chatted with my entire family (my mom, stepfather, sister, brother-in-law, grandparents and aunt) via webcam while they were at the hospital. Thank god the hospital had wireless! And thank god both my sister and I had a webcam! Technology never ceases to amaze me.


After good 10 hours of labor, my stubborn niece was not ready to come out. It was past midnight in Italy and the restaurant was closing… but the people at the restaurant had a brilliant idea and extended an extension cord outside so that I could plug in my laptop and continue to webcam with my family.

For the next four hours, I sat in the freezing cold outside and continued to chat with my family. It really felt like I was there with them! The sun was just about to come up when Stella Cruz D. entered in the world at 4:39 a.m. August 10th Italy time (7:39 p.m. August 9th Arizona time). My birthday is August 10th and since it was August 10th in Italy when she was born, I like to think she was born on the same day. :-) I can’t ask for a better birthday gift!!! She weighed 6 pounds 5 ounces and measured 20 inches long.

Many thanks to Tania, Antonio, Tonino and Antonietta at La Locanda for being so accommodating and for making this happen!!

Here are more pictures of Stella!

A week later…



I’m counting the days until I come home and meet mia Stellina, my little star!

24 August 2009 - 6:15 am Sarai - Congratulations! She's gorgeous. I missed your posts! :)

24 August 2009 - 6:44 am Marie Capossela/Cioffari O'Mahoney - Congratulations! What a beautiful little girl. May she have a long,healthy,happy and prosperous life.

24 August 2009 - 6:57 am janie - Che bella bambina! Auguri.! Glad to hear that you are alive and well in Calitri!

24 August 2009 - 8:06 am Fred & Ava Capossela - Dear Jason, What wonderful pictures and what a great story you'll be able to tell for generations!! She is such a beautiful angel. Congratulations to Pam, to you and your entire family. Here's to a a lifetime filled with happiness, health, love and peace, Stella Cruz D !!! Fondly, The Caposselas

24 August 2009 - 9:20 am Pamoo - that's amazing. Technology! I can't believe you stayed outside in the cold weather, but props to the extension cord provided by the family! WHEW

24 August 2009 - 10:15 am steph anne - Aww you're an awesome uncle already for staying out in the cold waiting for your niece to come out. :) I'm seriously so happy for you and your family! Stella is a beautiful addition to a beautiful family! We're all anxious to see you already. Miss you!

24 August 2009 - 11:40 am Mike - Again - Congrats to you and your family. I adore this photo. YAY.

28 August 2009 - 1:30 am your sis - I love that you are so excited about meeting Stella! She is excited tooooo - I've been telling her about you and letting her know that she has an amazing uncle who will meet her very soon =) Love you!

28 August 2009 - 7:14 pm John Gezelius - SUPER!! I managed to lose your e-mail and then I couldn't find your (this) website. Once I found the web site the first thing that I saw was this wonderful news!

9 September 2009 - 2:24 pm Cindy Gervase Turner - Hello! Hello! Stella is truly a Stellina; she is so tiny none of her baby clothes fit her! The whole family saw her last Sunday and Uncle Andy & Beth got to see her for the first time.They were afraid to hold her, so it gave me more holding time.

31 October 2009 - 11:42 pm Lori Dameff - oh, your sweet niece is such breathtaking beautiful!!! Really love the technology that we can do now so far away and yet so there at the moment! AWESOME! I can see that you are already the world's greatest uncle to this lovely little soul! :) Love you!

Conneely Girls Come to Italy – Part Two

I’m in a bit of a hurry, as we’re leaving tonight for Rimini. Then tomorrow, we’re going to Bologna where we’ll fly to Morocco for a week… So I’ll let the pictures tell the story this time. :-)

Enjoy.

Day Four – Positano

Waiting for the boat in Salerno

Waiting for the boat in Salerno

In Andretta


Pasquale and Valeria at left; Sheila, Don Ciccio and Erin at the right. (Pictures above taken from Erin’s camera

Day Five – Capri

Day Six – Calitri


Sheila and I signing “bones” at the cemetery. (Picture above taken from Erin’s camera)


The Camposanto (the guy who works at the cemetery) opened one of the boxes to our horror…(Picture above taken from Erin’s camera)

Margherita Zarrilli, Vito Michele Gervasi, Erin and Sheila

Margherita Zarrilli, Vito Michele Gervasi, Erin and Sheila


Vito Michele and his homemade grappa


Sheila trying Vito Michele’s grappa…and not liking it very much.

At Vito Micheles workshop

At Vito Michele's workshop

Day Six – Pompeii and Calitri

(Pictures above taken from Erin’s camera)

At Tre Rose in Calitri

This is what happens when Sheila and Erin has too much wine.

Calitri at Night, you can see Rendezvous in the distance.

Calitri at Night, you can see Rendezvous in the distance.

Day Six – Calitri then Roma


Street market

Campo de’ Fiore in Roma


The Conneely sisters with their aunt Paula who came to visit from Germany


With my cousin Ciro (Picture above taken from Erin’s camera)

Paula and Erin

Paula and Erin

Ponte Milvio



Giannicolo

Paula, Sheila, Ciro and Erin

Paula, Sheila, Ciro and Erin

Campo de’ Fiore

Fin. :)

29 June 2009 - 9:02 am Mom (BarbJean) - Beautiful Pictures!! Both Erin and Sheila seemed to have a blast with you, Jason! :)

29 June 2009 - 6:53 pm Dennis Codella - Jason, Your pictures are great and the lifestyle looks so free and easy. Enjoy

30 June 2009 - 9:21 am josephine kalista - I love the pictures , my cousins and I are defineltly going to go to capri and cant wait to visit calitri in june of 2011. thanks for all the pictures its giving me great places to choose from

30 June 2009 - 4:26 pm Sarai - Erin is absolutely gorgeous. I love the photos of the sea.

1 July 2009 - 6:11 am Sazzy D. - 1) LOVE your new blog look! 2) Please don't ever delete these entries as it's a great travel blog for those who want to travel to Italy (like me!) one day! 3) Looks like y'alls having a blast!

13 August 2009 - 8:37 am Lizzie Savanella - Hi facebook friend! I found your blog while i was looking up information about calitri and now i cant wait to go there!!! your photos are beautiful!!!!

Conneely Girls Come to Italy – Part One

Day One – Calitri

Bianca and I picked up Erin and Sheila in Avellino then drove to Calitri. I showed them their place, “Big Brother”, which they quickly fell in love with. They were awestruck with the sheer beauty of the town — they had never seen anything like it. Of course, their reaction made me beam inside and out.

After they settled in, we ate a delicious meal of entirely Calitran fare at Tre Rose with three of my friends, Valeria, Pasquale and Don Ciccio. Canazz’, cingul’, vino rosso, you name it…

Valeria, Don Ciccio, Pasquale, Sheila and Erin at Tre Rose

Valeria, Don Ciccio, Pasquale, Sheila and Erin at Tre Rose

We ended the evening with a couple more drinks and rounds of pool (we Americans lost, by the way) at Rendezvous before heading to bed.

Day Two – Agriturismo in Rapone, il Lago in Monticchio and Calitri

Orrecchitette con pancetta e gorgonzola

Orrecchitette con pancetta e gorgonzola

The Lake at Monticchio


Carobs

Carobs




Back to Calitri

We met with Luigia and Angelo, deaf friends of mine. Erin and Sheila quickly picked up Italian Sign Language and was able to communicate with them with little difficulty.

Luigia, Sheila e Erin a La Locanda DellArco

Luigia, Sheila e Erin a La Locanda Dell'Arco

Erin before she braves a sip of Grappa

Erin before she braves a sip of Grappa

Conversing in Italian Sign Language

Conversing in Italian Sign Language

Pasquale, Sheila, Erin e Bianca al Wine & Bar

Pasquale, Sheila, Erin e Bianca al Wine & Bar

Day Three – Amalfi Coast

Sheila proudly displaying her lunch - a crustacean of some sort

Sheila proudly displaying her lunch - a crustacean of some sort

Limoncello

Limoncello

I cant vouch for this. :-)

I can't vouch for this. :-)

The three of us posing the European way, meaning no smiling :)

The three of us posing the European way, meaning no smiling :)


27 June 2009 - 12:28 pm Mom - Great Pictures!

27 June 2009 - 4:01 pm Sarai - I LOVE the pictures of the girls with the fountain. They're hilarious.

27 June 2009 - 4:02 pm janie - Fabulous!

27 June 2009 - 8:31 pm Rachel - Wow-Jason! The pictures are SURREAL! Did you buy a new and more expensive camera? :) regardless, I love the treatment. Really wish I could be there!! I got big news to share. Let's ooVoo soooooon. :) xoxo Rachel

27 June 2009 - 8:54 pm Maur - Journal and pictures are truely awesome!

My visit to San Lupo

On Thursday, June 11th, my friends from Arizona were scheduled to arrive in Avellino by bus at 6:30 p.m. and I got our rental car earlier that day at 9 in the morning. I decided to seize the opportunity and spend the day in San Lupo in the Benevento province, where my great-grandma’s family came from. I asked Bianca if she wanted to accompany me — she jumped at the chance.

My great-great-grandparents, Carlo Maria and Maria Giuseppa, are in the center.  From Left to Right: Genoveffa, Maria, Arduino, Egiziaca, Vincenzo, Armando, Roberto and my great-grandmother, Pasqualina.

My great-great-grandparents, Carlo Maria Linfante and Maria Giuseppa Martino, are centered. From Left to Right: Genoveffa, Maria, Arduino, Egiziaca, Vincenzo, Armando, Roberto and my great-grandmother, Pasqualina.

The drive there was surprisingly short, around 1.5 hours, if not less. As we entered the province of Benevento, I was carried away by the sheer beauty of the surrounding landscape, which consisted of rolling verdant hills dotted with olive trees, lush vineyards and content cows chewing grass. The hills were met with magnificent mountains that seemed to reach the sky. I had never seen anything more beautiful.

I felt a pang of guilt because as some of you may remember from a previous blog entry that I had been to San Lupo once years ago in the dead of winter and was none too impressed with it. I was expecting a dreary, lifeless place…but when I got there, it turned out to be completely the opposite and nothing I remembered.

Ironically, the very first Sanluponesi that I encountered–a short, elderly woman with a face as wrinkled as a dried apple–was the very same person that my mom, sister and I saw and spoke to upon our arrival in January of 2001. What are the chances? She instantly remembered me and said excitedly, “You’re a Linfante from America!”.

My goal was to access the old church records and in order to do so, I needed the town priest’s permission. Bianca asked her if she knew if the priest was in town. She didn’t but told us where he resided. As we walked in the direction of his house, we popped into a meat market for further directions only to discover that the priest’s nephew was there. The nephew told us that his uncle, Don Silvo Vaccarella, was in Napoli and wouldn’t be back until in the afternoon.

To kill time, we decided to go to the town comune to get the birth record of my great-great-grandparents, Carlo Maria Linfante and Maria Giuseppa Martino. The mayor, Nicodemo Tedeschi, was more than happy to assist. He even remarked, “I wouldn’t offer to make copies for anyone as I’m not allowed to; however, for you, I will gladly do so. Shhh.” Bianca is insistent that she and her batting eyelashes beguiled his better judgment. :-) As Nicodemo poured over the records, he told me that the Linfante’s were the most educated and wealthiest in town back then. That makes me wonder — if that is true, why did all of them emigrate to America?

The birth record of Maria Giuseppa Martino, born to Saverio Martino and Lucia Alfonso Rossi on 16 October 1871

The birth record of Maria Giuseppa Martino, born to Saverio Martino and Lucia Alfonso Rossi on 16 October 1871

After that, Bianca and I wandered around town. We covered the entire town in mere 30 minutes (that is how small it was). The town was quiet and immaculate; its streets were lined with olive and cherry trees. Bianca told me she heard nothing but birds chirping, the occasional clanging of the church bells and the fruit vendor hollering “Ananas! Pesce! Mele!”.


As we walked by the two women in the above picture (in the distance), they inquired as to who we were. Bianca said to them, while gesturing in my direction, “É un americano. La sua bisnonna era un Linfante.” The elderly women both immediately exclaimed, “Linfante!”, and then said things that I did not understand. Bianca translated for me, “All the Linfante’s have moved away to America except for one, a woman named Antonietta. She lives in Cerreto Sannitia.” I already knew this as my mom and I met her in 2001.


At 3 p.m., Don Silvo finally arrived. We introduced ourselves to him then explained why we were there. He then led us to the back of Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista where the records were located. I was somewhat dismayed to learn that their records go back to only the 1720s (the ones in Calitri go back to the mid-16th century); however, I was excited to verify that the Linfante’s moved to San Lupo from a neighboring town, Cerreto Sannitia, sometime in the 1770s. Perhaps their records are older and will be able to either confirm or dispute the age-old family tradition that Linfante’s originated in France. I was also surprised to learn that my great-great-grandfather Carlo had six siblings (not three, as we originally thought) and Maria Giuseppa had four siblings, of which one remained in San Lupo. She had one sister named Genoveffa, who died in her teens. Now I know who my great-aunt Genevieve (Genoveffa) was named for.

Town of San Lupo

Town of San Lupo

Our job was done so we left at 5 p.m. and headed to Avellino to pick up Erin and Sheila. More posts to come shortly. :-)

23 June 2009 - 11:48 am Bonnie(valentinoswife) - Your photos are wonderful - they make me want to get away to Italy again already! There can be almost nothing as exciting as finding family, meeting those who remember them and who can share those stories!

23 June 2009 - 12:19 pm janie - I love your determination to find the records with info on your family. Hope you had a fabulous time with your friends!

23 June 2009 - 12:30 pm Paula O'Neill - Guapo! Great story of the family! Interesting details. I wish I were Italian... Paula

23 June 2009 - 3:33 pm Marie Capossela/Cioffari O'Mahoney - I love reading about your journeys in and around Calitri and seeing the beautiful pictures of the scenery and architecture. Thank you for letting me experience this!

23 June 2009 - 7:59 pm Marie Capossela/Cioffari O'Mahoney - Thank you for letting us see the beautiful scenery and architecture of the incomparable Calitri region.

23 June 2009 - 9:16 pm Sarai - I cannot tell you how excited I am to have found your blog! I've actually Stumbled it so that other people find it. I've been reading your past entries (for about an hour so far!) and I love your photography and the way you describe your time in Calitri. It really seems like a beautiful place.

24 June 2009 - 4:35 am Raeline - I feel like I am on the trip with you - thank you so much Jason for taking the time to do this and share

24 June 2009 - 10:11 pm Lorene D. - Jason! the pic of your great-grandmother, Pasqualina got your face!!! I can see the family resemblance! Oddly, only she and no one else in the family picture have your face. Also, I love the pics you took and the journal you are writing. I am so glad you are posting again since I have been checking in your blog every day! Take care, dear cuz!

27 June 2009 - 12:31 pm Mom (BarbJean) - San Lupo is amazing! I love a picture of my grandma Gervase's family! :)

13 September 2009 - 3:51 pm roseann - love your pictures I will be visiting san lupo in a few days my father was born there and his sister and family are still there. We will be spending 5 days there i have not been there in 25 years. We use to go there for the feast in july. How were you able to get all of your relatives info in san lupo? do you think I will be able to get records of grandparents? I will also ask my family if the knew any Linfantes. I will letyou know when I get back.Thanks for sharing your story and pics